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Inland Bearded Dragon - Pogona vitticeps
Dragon's Den Herpetoculture
310 970 1393
www.dragonsdenherp.com

Young hatchlings can be kept in 10 - 20 gallon enclosures with a basking area set at one end. Use a light bulb or heat bulb to direct heat toward the basking area so the surface temperature stays around 110 degrees. A piece of driftwood or cork bark can be placed at an angle to allow the lizard to climb closer to, or further from, the light as needed to regulate body temperature. The cool side of the enclosure should not exceed 85F for any length of time. Night time temps can drop into the 60's without worry, but warmer nights will make your dragon eat more and grow faster. WARNING: We advise against the use of electric "Hot Rocks" unless they are equipped with a temperature control device.

In addition to a heat source, Bearded Dragons also need exposure to light similar to that produced by the sun. We currently use the Reptisun 5.0 manufactured by ZOO MED. We have used these lights to breed several types of lizards, with excellent success, and we believe them to be the best lights available (for more see our notes on lighting). Use a bulb that extends the entire length of the enclosure, and make sure the lizards can climb to within 8"-12". An appliance timer is recommended to ensure that the heat and lights are turning on and off at the same time each day. Of course, nothing can replace true sunlight and your lizard will benefit from any exposure to unfiltered sunlight, provided the temperature is within reason. When sunning your dragon outside, make sure to provide a shaded area for escape from the heat. WARNING: Never place a glass enclosure in direct sunlight, as the magnified heat will quickly cook your lizard

Hatchlings should be fed small (1/4" or smaller, and never larger than 1/3 the size of the lizards head) crickets every day for best growth. Crickets should be dusted with a good calcium supplement before every feeding. In addition, a multivitamin such as Herptivite should be use once a week. A small portion of various leafy greens is also recommended daily. Bearded Dragons will quickly learn to drink from a water dish - provide a shallow dish with 1/4" - 1/2" of clean water.

If a lizard refuses to eat, you can try to assist him, but never force anything into your lizard's mouth. Mix a little chicken baby food with a pinch of calcium supplement and add enough water to make a thick liquid. Slowly feed the lizard through a dropper, allowing him to catch his breath as needed. Don't force it, but feed the lizard as much as he will take. Don't allow the lizard to get dehydrated and chances for recovery are usually pretty good.

If two or more dragons are kept together, watch for individuals that become intimidated and don't eat or bask as often as they should. If this happens, it's best to move that lizard to a separate enclosure and allow it to gain weight before being reintroduced. Once the lizard has been observed eating and basking, and weight/size gain is obvious, he can be housed with others that are the same size.

FEEDING ROUTINE

Try to offer fresh leafy greens the first thing each morning. Crickets should be offered when the lizards have had a chance to warm up. For optimum growth, crickets can be offered again in the afternoon, but make sure that the lizards have at least 90 minutes to digest their last meal before the heat is turned off for the night.
Salad Mix: Try to use a variety of dark, leafy greens like collard greens, kale, mustard greens, turnip tops, arugula, dandelion greens, chard, etc. All greens should be pesticide free and chopped or torn into pieces small enough for the intended lizards. Be sure to remove any hard veins that may cause your lizard to choke.
***Remember to remove any fecal matter as soon as you see it, and any food or water dishes that have been contaminated by feces, and the chances of spreading disease are greatly reduced.

A must for any dragon owner is the book by Phillippe de Vosjoli and Bob Mailloux, The Bearded Dragon Manual. Another book that we highly recommend is The Right Way To Feed Insect Eating Lizards, also by Phillippe de Vosjoli. Both books can be purchased for under $15, so there is no reason not to own these valuable manuals.

***A NOTE ON LIGHTING

Over the last few years we have tested various types of lighting in an effort to determine the best lights for keeping Bearded Dragons. We believe that Zoo Med’s Reptisun 5.0 is the best florescent light for raising, breeding, and maintaining healthy Bearded Dragons. In using the Reptisun 5.0, we have noticed that our animals have been more active, had better appetites, and exhibited exceptional growth rates. In addition, with the use of the Reptisun 5.0, our dragons’ egg production has been better that ever.